JoshuasTravels — admin

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April 5th 2005

11 days, 4 cities, 3 shirts, 349 pictures… 1 helluva an adventure MelbourneAdelaideHobart

Warning: This e-mail, like Lou Ferrigno, is bigger than big. It’s huge.

I’d like to extend a warm thanks to all those who wished me a happy birthday. I’m not really a big believer in the hocus-pocus, but somehow it worked. Your wishes came true and I had a most wonderful Birthday. We went to the beach and played a little sand rugby, which was light hearted, good natured and a heckuva lota fun. Before that, my housemates brought out two delicious chocolate cakes – and they did a bang-up job on the Batman/Superman emblems. As a man who has doodled quite a few of those over the years, I was impressed. Then I got my gifts – a copy of The Australian (a kicking Aussie newspaper), and a sampler of the best root beer in Australia. I also got that pair of $6 Aviator sunnies that are in all the pictures and make me look soroguishly handsome. Or is it handsome rouge?

My Fam also sprung out and got me what didn’t know I needed: a website. So if you’ve got some time, head on over to joshuastravels.com. It’s not much more than a photo-dump (who’s ready to see more pictures of Josh in front of things?) right now, but in time it’ll be the best little website ever. Hopefully I’ll be able to stop clogging up your inbox and you’ll be able to read these very words on the site.

Speaking of the sampler I got, we’re going try something. On my part, I’m going to stop saying what a responsible drinker I am. Sure I have my fun, but at the end of the day I’m about twice as sensible with the ‘ol cough medicine as any twenty year old should be. And on your part, you’re going to promise not to flip out if happen to see any bottles in any of the pictures I post, okay? Groovy.

The concert was awesome. Loved the Jack. His opening acts, G. Love and Special Sauce followed by Xavier Rudd (an Aussie that plays like seven instruments at once, including the dij(eridoo]. And OMG, Jack was awesome. He played for almost two hours and it was great. I almost passed out from excitement when the whole building sang “posters” from his first album. I was about a foot from the stage and maybe eight feet from the man with the guitar. I wasn’t the only one that loved him, either. It took the girls behind me about 40 minutes to take all my feminist, non-objectification-of-women theories back to square one. I wasn’t comfortable hearing half of what they yelled, so I won’t even think about repeating it.

The original plan was to hit up Hobart, Tasmania the day after the concert, but life rolls and you’ve got to roll with it. So the concert ended at midnight and I left for the train to Sydney at 4AM, with no sleep and the Jack still raging through my system. The last couple of pictures in the “birthday_Jack_etc” section are of me, pre-concert. I didn’t take my camera to the concert because that’s just dumb. The picture with the “6” in it is my new door decoration, courtesy of somethingawful.com. It’s a parody of a public service ad and I love it. Also in that sub-section are pictures of me with my mate’s Cricket bat, pictures of me with another mate in our national-pride shirts, and a picture of me with Emily Hillerman. She’s the only other Trumaner to make it to the southern hemisphere, I dropped her an e-mail and we met up for pizza.

So, after I got off the train in Sydney, I hopped it to the Domestic terminal, where I flew out to Melbourne. Melbourne had a Euro-vibe to it and totally rocked. The Queen Victoria Market’s almost came close to rivaling Portland‘s Saturday Market. I saw the US Consulate (Embassies are technically US soil, so they’re only in capitals. Consulates are basically the same thing), the House of Parliament and the garden where the hung Ned Kelly (the Aussie’s own homegrown Robin Hood). There’s also a picture of me with three girls about my age. The conversation with them went something like this:

Me: “excuse me, could you point me towards Federation Square
Them: “sure <looking at the map>.. [are you] from Canada then?”
“no, no, Los Angeles, actually. And you guys?”
Missouri
“Unbelievable. I go to Truman [Sate University]”

And it took me about ten minutes to convince them. But in the end, we wound up doing the one thing there was left to do at that point: take a picture.

This is also a good time to illustrate my slow progression toward major cities. Initially, when asked, I’d tell people I’m from Portland, Oregon. It’s a fairly big city (bigger than, say, Troutdale) and I figured most people would know where it was. When they didn’t, I started saying Seattle. And now I’m on LA, except when I say “LA” it sounds a lot like how Aussies pronounce Adelaide (duh-lay). So now I’m on Chicago, but that won’t last. I just know I’ll leave Australia telling people I’m from New York.

So the Fitzroy suburb or Melbourne was pretty rocking and so was Chinatown. The Lt. Collins and Collins streets run parallel and are right next to each other, which I thought merited a picture. Incidentally, all Aussie cities will have an Elizabeth St, no matter how small. Just like all US cities will have a MLK or JFK boulevard, or both.

I also visited a little place called Batman Park, which made the whole semester abroad twice as great. It’s named for John Batman, who discovered the Yarra river and founded Melbourne (the city was initially called “Batmania”), but I like to think that John Batman was named after some rodent. Some rodent that flies. And sometimes, when I’ve had a lot of sugar, I like to think that John Batman might’ve been Bob Kane’s inspiration for creating the Dark Knight.

I got on down to Phillip Island, where every night a whole bunch of penguins come out of the water and onto the land. They were neat-o and looked like a bunch of cockroaches swarming around. I don’t have any pictures because they’re strict about the no-flash, but I did snap a few of the little birds below the walkway and of the animals we saw on the trip down. We saw some crazy animals on the trip down: the coo-coo-burgh-ah, a bird that sounds like the laugh right before the song “Wipeout.” Those little things are hilarious. The Gippsland worms are pretty wack, too.

After three days in Melbourne, I’d decided I’d had enough and high-tailed it to Adelaide. Now there’s a song by Warren Zevon called “Mr. Bad Example.” And in the song, Zevon sings “14 hours later I was down in Adelaide / looking through the want ads, sipping Foster’s in the shade.” I realize that’s a song nobody’s heard of by an artist nobody’s heard of and I don’t think I’m cooler or indie-er than anyone, but Zevon rocks socks.

 

Anyway, I bet you can guess what I did roughly 14 hours after I touched down. I found a paper, a Foster’s, some shade, and somebody to take the picture. It’s hard to find Foster’s in the Great Down Under, too. When you ask for it, they laugh at you and tell you to try a real Aussie beer, like Victoria Bitter (VB) or Toohey’s. Or they laugh at you and tell you, in the voice they reserve for obnoxious Americans and the mentally disabled, that Foster’s is their export beer because it’s so bad that they make the Kiwis (New Zealanders) drink it.

Saw an Aussie Rules Football game, too. It was the opening game of the season and boy howdee, was that was an experience – the first time I’ve ever seen a busy or rude Australian (he got pretty steamed when I didn’t understand the system of lining up to get into the stadium). I won’t even try to explain it. Gleneg beach, right outside Adelaide, was pretty schweet, too. In conclusion, Adelaide is prolly the place I’d live, if I was Australian. But I won’t try to snag Permanent Residenceship there, because the Australians seem to have a problem recognizing my unalienable right to bear arms. They’ve got some of the strictest gun control laws in the world.

So after Adelaide, I was off to Tasmania. But before that, one sour note: I had a free day Wednesday, where I was stuck in Sydney for about 10 hours. Being the studious person I am, I took off to the library and got some work done, planning to nap in the airport until my early early flight. I returned to the airport, than got kicked out a half hour later when it closed. What kind of first world country has an airport – in its major city, nonetheless- that closes? So I caught the last train to Sydney proper and scrounged for a hostel. I checked seven, and they were all booked. It was Easter weekend, you see. I couldn’t have bought a bed for $200. I thought about bumming it in a park, but I’ve read way to much Batman to be comfortable with sleeping on city streets between 11PM and 3AM, so I took a cab back the airport to see if maybe I could sleep by the doors or something.

Bottom line: after 7 days of frugal backpacking, only paying for what I need and staying hungry, life hit me upside the head with a fairly large cab fare I shouldn’t have paid anyway and a cold, cold night hiding from security, sleeping on the cold asphalt between terminals and the car park. That is not a recipe for a happy Josh. Karma owes me big.

Tassie was pretty sweet though. Hobart was very Oregon-ish; very protective of its great outdoors and very, for lack of a better word, “weird.” I saw Port Arthur, which was the Alcatraz maximum-security prison of Australia and reserved for the baddest of the bad convicts. It was a pretty rough place, but it was also where they started a lot of the “rehabilitation” stuff. It was the first time anyone tried to teach a con a trade so they wouldn’t have to steal, that sort of thing. Smith O’Bryan, an Irish journalist revolutionary lived in a cottage at Port Arthur, too. He was pretty much allowed to do whatever he wanted, except leave. As a self-proclaimed revolutionary journalist myself, I thought that was pretty darn cool. The ride to PA was neat-o, too. We stopped and saw some beautiful parts of Tasmania – Devil’s Kitchen and stuff like that.

It was only a day trip, though. Back in Hobart proper, I ventured out to the carnival-thing “10 Days on The Island” with a few fellow backpackers. There I saw this Hula Girl perform. She must’ve been hula hoping 25 hoops around her stomach, and then she had diagonal ones from both shoulders, still rotating. Then she kicked a leg straight out and hooped there, too. All at the same time, and in a crazy rhythm. It was indescribable and by far the most aswesomest thing I’ve seen in Australia yet.

A friendly word of advice: should you ever run into a Tasmanian, never insinuate that they aren’t part of the mainland. They take moderate offense to that. Finally, it looks like Emelia Udd (one of those women in my life that defies classification – confident, best friend, cohort-in-crime and a list of other descriptors) is the only person who is taking me up on my offer to come visit me in Australia. I won’t end with anything fancy, it’s now 1900 words since I said “thanks for wishing me happy birthday” and I’m sure you’ve got more important things to do.

Josh Van Helsing

PS – Please forgive mistakes, this e-mail was scrunched between assignments. I figured it was better imperfect than never.

March 11th 2005

In a sunburnt country Syd2

Last weekend was the Sydney Gay/Lesbian Mardi Gras. Of course, I had to go. If only to compare it to the San Francisco LGBTQ parade (which has coincided with my Alcatraz swim three times out the four years). This time, the majority of my house elected to tag along. Exploring the city, we hit up the Aquarium, the Opera House, the Rocks, and Manly Beach. The following is photodocumentation thereof.
http://fento.ath.cx/photos/2005/1_winter/syd2_mardi_gras/index.html

The first few pics are of Jen’s (the one in the clam-shell bikini) 21st Birthday. So we went to the local Newcastle pub and had a few root beers. After that, we got on the roof and mucked around. ‘Nuff said.

DSCN3979 http://fento.ath.cx/photos/2005/1_winter/syd2_mardi_gras/dscn3979.jpg
Amanda, Russ, Rob, Gundi, Nikki. Gundi is really Sam, but everybody calls him Gun-dee because he’s from Gundagai, Australia (pop: 2,000). He’s the only Aussie that really hangs out with us. If the others are around, they’ll have some fun with the Americans, but Gundi is the true-blue dude. Plus, he’s incredibly photogenic – look for him in a few of the other pictures.

DSCN4005 http://fento.ath.cx/photos/2005/1_winter/syd2_mardi_gras/dscn4005.jpg
I like this picture because I set it up perfectly, then Clueless Jen walked right into it. Miraculously, it turned out looking pretty planned.

DSCN3997http://fento.ath.cx/photos/2005/1_winter/syd2_mardi_gras/dscn3997.jpg:
This is us, behind the Sydney Opera House. I’m pretty sure I forgot to mention this last time, but House’s architect (Jorn Utzon, with a / through the o) is Danish. I know that’s too much Dane to handle, so I promise I won’t mention the Sovereignty again for a few e-mails. Friday night we just hung out behind the O. House and chewed the fat. A lot of these pictures are a little fuzzy and I don’t know why. I switched the settings on the camera a million times last weekend, but it was still punking out.

DSCN4046 http://fento.ath.cx/photos/2005/1_winter/syd2_mardi_gras/dscn4046.jpg
There is a scene in the first Matrix where Morpheus tells Neo to look at the Lady In Red again. He does, and wham! it’s not the Lady In Red anymore, it’s an agent. All that takes place on a busy sidewalk in front of a fountain. This is us, in front of that fountain. The next picture is from a building down the street or, if you have an active imagination, the building that the Oracle lives in. I took the blue pill.

I like DSCN4053
http://fento.ath.cx/photos/2005/1_winter/syd2_mardi_gras/dscn4053.jpg
because it shows the incredible difference between the New Zealand and Australian flags. One has red stars, one has white stars. Creativity abounds in the Southern Hemisphere.

Now, I know what you’re thinking: A) Josh is reading a biography on Jim Morrison, B) Jim was, for a while, a Mythic Drunk and C) Josh is pretty impressionable. Thus, I reiterate: there is nothing to worry about. I’m already past the point in the book where Mr. Mojo Risin’ has gone from being a Mythic Drunk to just an Everyday Drunk. In these
pictures, you see me holding a bottle or two. In reality, those are pretty much the only bottles I’ve held since the last send-out. I’m trying to puzzle out the formula – it’s something like The Likelihood Of A Picture Being Taken increases if I have a Beverage In My Hand, but I can’t pin down the variable about The Likelihood Of The Picture
Being Important Enough To Post On The Internet exponentially increasing the snaps taken.

That’s all for now (and the next little bit). Due to the unforgiving nature of the Australian Higher Education system, I have a few big projects that need getting done. So I’ll be sacrificing the next two weekends for the “betterment” of my mind. I told my Prof I’d rather be in Perth, looking out at the big, blue ocean and bettering my soul, but he said my soul will just have to wait. But you know what happens that third weekend? Jack Johnson. I’m more excited about that then I should be, but JJ in Australia? Only a Jimmy Buffett appearance could make it more perfect. And, if everything stays jake, I’ll be off to
Hobart immediately after the concert.

J. Kirk Fenton

PS – My new column: http://www.trumanindex.com/news/890195.html I couldn’t get it to say exactly what I wanted, but I think this gets the gist of the message. If you can’t read it, let me know and I’ll send out another version. My school newspaper has just added aregister-for-free-or-you-can’t-read-the-online-edition that may or may not keep everyone from seeing it. And would somebody please clue me to Brad Wheeler’s e-mail address?

March 2nd 2005

A Stranger In An Semi-strange Land – Newcastle1

Let me welcome you to beautiful Newcastle. First off, I’ve laid out all the Australian loot. I like Aussie coin because it’s smart. Like every other nonAmerican currency, it’s different colors and different sizes (bigger means it’s worth more). This strikes me as just logical. Gundy, one of my house-mates, wouldn’t believe it when I told him the only difference in US bills are the numbers on the corners and the dead white guys in the middle. Also, Australian moola is plastic and untearable (I’ve tried). Legend says that this is so surfers won’t have to leave their wallets on the beach. They even have nifty slang for it: 10 = Blue Swimmer, 20 = Rock Lobster, 50 = Canary. Which is way cooler than 20 = Jackson. If you want some of this killer legal tender, let me know. I’ll even give you the best exchange rate you’ll ever get – a dozen donuts for every 3 dollaridoos. Finally, the guy in the hat on the Blue Swimmer is a world famous poet; the same guy that wrote Waltzing Matilda (roughly the Australian equivalent of Yankee Doodle Dandee).

The rest of Newcastle is pretty sweet, too. Those Jurassic Park looking pictures are my best representations of the Uni. It’s built right in a swamp-jungle. This means it’s always about 8 degrees Celsius hotter than the city proper. It’s the only downside to the place. I love my classes and I think I’ll be able to do okay in all of them, even with all my hiatusing about.

I live in the Hamilton suburb (Silverchair went to high school about three blocks from me), which is about 10 minutes from the beach and about 30 minutes from the Uni. I live about thirty seconds or three minutes from two bus stops, which is how I get around (whenever I can’t bike). It’s a pretty convenient house. I’m living with 5 other Americans (all East Coasters) and 5 Aussies. It’s not the Hilton and I’ve seen a few cockroaches (not too many), but it is AUS$120 cheaper than on-campus housing and I buy my own food, which means I can take it with me when I travel.

That big stack of books? That’s everything I want to read on the trains and planes. That big Australian map? Found it at the Salvation Army for four bucks. The highlighted red is everywhere I’ve been so far. The other markings are from the guy who had it before me.

Two-Fisted Death
http://fento.ath.cx/photos/2005/1_winter/newcastle1/index.html

PS – Got my Jack Johnson tickets. 23rd of March I’ll be rocking it with the locals. That’s the week right after my 20th birthday (I’m planning on spending that in Perth), which makes it even sweeter.

March 1st 2005

A weekend trip to Sydney. Just Because. Syd1.

It’s worth noting that Aussies love their Danes. Ever since the crown prince of Hamlet’s Hometown married some off-the-street Australian Shelia, the OzPress has had a field day with the Danish version of Prince William (it’s a loose association – the Dane is twice the athlete, Samaritan and scholar than the British Pom ever could hope to be). I first noticed it in the papers, but Prince Fredrich the Fantastic was in Sydney the same weekend I was. I to buy a bike, he to dominate world-class yacht racing.

Got tucked into the Youth Hostel Association Hostel straight off the train. The YHA is sort of the Ritz of hostelling, so I was overcharged a few bucks, but I figured it was worth it: super-central location and ardi Gras high season evened things out.

Most of the pictures are self-explanatory; here are just a few side-notes. They’re in roughly the same right order (as you read this), but I’m sure you can match up with the right photographs. A last quick aside: there is no 1818 Wallaby Way and I’m not sure I would’ve gone if there had been. Nemo can find himself, eh?

I picked up my two-wheeled, 40 Dollaridoo, pre-loved Hog at a suburban Saturday Market. I actually ran into some people from Parkrose (a sister suburb of Troutdale) there. I would’ve gotten a group picture, but I had a train to catch in three minutes. Small world, eh? I’ve actually been pretty happy with the bike, in the four days that I’ve had it. I got myself a helmet and a rear-carrier (just like the kind grandpa has) with a crate. Its 18-speed and it’ll get me to campus and back, which is all I need. If I ever get around to that triathlon, she’ll (I’ve named her the Millennium Falcon) do me well.

I also hit up the Direct Factory Outlets. The DFO is a pretty sweet place and I picked up two shirts, a pair of shorts, and some surprises for Anna and Emelia there. All on a Traveler’s budget, too. I was looking for some Jimmy Buffett-esqe loafers, but no dice. My old loafers are shot and I feel naked without them. One of my old Truman Pals is named Jacquie, which explains the JACQUI-E picture.

The Opera House wasn’t as impressive as I thought it would be. I don’t really like Opera, though. But it was important to see, so I saw it. And that Palm Groove picture? I took that myself, with the self-timer feature of my little Nikon Coolpix 3500. Which explains the darkish quality, eh?

After some extensive investigating, I’ve verified that the fountain is the same fountain from the Lady In Red scene of Matrix1. This means that I’m going to get a better picture, one with me in front of it. Whoever e-mails in the best pose suggestion before Friday gets a signed copy.

If the Opera House was unclimactic, the Manly and Bondi beaches were a very pleasant surprise. They were both super-cool. I’m a Communications major, so I’m pretty inarticulate. Let’s just say that I’m thinking about skipping my trip to Darwin just to get another weekend there.

If I had one regret about my little weekend excursion, it’s that I didn’t get around to King’s Cross. The slums of Sydney, it was made infamous for it’s Neo-Nazi’s by Russell Crowe in Romper Stomper, a classic Ozziewood production. I would’ve liked to enlighten a few Kiwis’ on the subtler points of American Imperialistic Egalitarianism, eh? In the rough parts of Troutdale, I’m known as two-fisted death.

Not really. But it’s hard to believe I only have four more months here. The Newcastle e-mail is coming (I’ve got a little schoolwork to do before I can knock that one out). But I’m having a great time, rolling with a lot of the “culture shock” and the difficulties of being able to look out at that big blue Pacific and realize that the people you love are big, big ocean away. Life’s a rollercoaster, baby baby. I’ll get by.

Citizen Fenton
http://www.fento.ath.cx/photos/2005/1_winter/syd1/index.html

Those who wish to add or subtract an address to the mass e-mailing list will be required to present a paper cup not filled with cherry pits or gravel at the office of the  ex-administrator of unexpected nasal events. All others will be required to present paper cups NOT filled with cherry pits or gravel at the nose of the official administrator of ex-events. If someone could give me Brad Wheeler’s e-ddress, that’d be great.

February 15th 2005

Let’s go Surfing now, everybody’s learning how

In a word, the surf trip was: Awesome. I had a great time, met some great people, surfed some great waves and visited some great parts of Australia.

There were 30 or so surfers-to-be, two instructors, and a cameraman (they sell DVDs of the trip for AUS$50 – I wasn’t really in it, so I didn’t buy it). I was one of two Americans – the other a 28 year old vagabond originally from Chicago. He’s been around, had just spent two years in Japan, some time in South America, etc. We wound up sharing a two-man tent. Politically, we disagreed pretty completely, but we stuck to friendly topics and got along great. He really reminded of a cool version of Kyle Roff, my lame-o frosh roomie. He’s the guy with the goatee in picture “CIMG0259.”

Other than the two Americans, there were a few Canadians and a whole host UKers, with a Swede, Hollander (I hung out with those last two the most), and Korean. The UKers were mostly English, with a Scot and Irishman thrown in for good measure. Of course, the ensuing friendly rivalry was worth keeping an ear open – “that third burrito was tastier than the second – you up for fourth, Scot?” “Ay, if you are.”

 

For some reason, the Redcoats really liked my accent. They said it was unlike typical US-New York in its slowness, almost like a drawl. They immediate likeness was Tom Hanks in Forrest Gump. Of course, this was probably all during the daily, 10 minute “jerk the American’s chain” session. Still, we swapped – I’d say “Jenny got really sick” or “I just had to run” if they’d say “not bloody likely, you silly Yank.” The surf: I was standing up by second day, and really enjoyed myself the whole week. I know I’m not the next Laird Hamilton, but you sure do feel like Greg Noll, riding those giant two footers. It’s clichι, but true – “catch a wave and you’re sitting on top of the world.” I feel like I can’t explain in to non-surfers (yeah, I said it). If you ever get the chance, try it out. It’s almost better than kissing girls.

The locations: very out of the way, very beautiful. I hope I was able to capture some of that beauty with the ‘ole digital, but I only pulled it out when I was certain that there wasn’t any sand or salt or water to ruin it. I wasn’t about to ruin my camera my first trip out. Still, I took 153 pictures (I’ve whittled them down to the 97 most essential), which may convey the message I’m trying to send. None are of my surfing (risk > benefit), but all are fully downloadable, printable, and framable via any self-service kiosk. May I suggest that DSCN3833 would look wonderful on any wall?

A few explanations:

DSCN3809 – The Arts Factory is the hostel we stayed at Friday to Saturday. It was PDC; clean buy hippy

DSCN3810 – Pretty typical of most Oz-cars. In America, we all have SUVs but use them for freeway driving. In Oz, the only people that have off-road vehicles are the people that use them for off-roading. And they don’t mess around with Chevy Suburbans or H2s. They use Land Rovers, Land Cruisers, or older Jeeps.

DSCN3836 – John Howard is the current Australian PM. Don’t my forearms look incredibly muscular in that picture?

DSCN3848 – Outside the tourist pub in Byron Bay, around 10PM. That’s Johann, my Swedish bud. He’s 30, who had started that evening by downing his flask of Swedish brandy around. As you can see in the photograph, I am in complete control of my facilities and rather enjoying watching this guy try to do, well, anything.

Also – There may be a picture or two in which you may see me holding a bottle of good, old fashioned Australian Root Beer. Oz is a good place to drink Root Beer – there is an easy-going, laid-back, drink as much or as little as you like attitude that is very understanding of new Root Beer drinkers like myself. I assure you, there is nothing; I repeat nothing to worry about. I am fully aware of my inability to out consume any European or Australian (they are pros with the stuff) and the futility of any such efforts. No, I am content to sit and merely enjoy the warm feelings that accompany a belly full of the fizzy from a small number of Root Beers whilst retaining my lucidity.

 

Besides all that, the trip itself was super-cool. We camped out in true Surfer-style, eating cheap but energizing foods. For brekky, they mixed up this custom dish oatmeal, raisins, nuts, and corn flakes. With a dab of honey and some milk, it was tasty and energizing. The meals were all like that, charming, filling, yet true to wave-rider’s budget. Unbelievable. In a simile, it was cooler than two new Batman comics. Which is saying something.

Josh
http://www.fento.ath.cx/photos/2005/1_winter/surfaris_7_day_surf_camp/surfaris_josh/index.html
(be patient – the pictures are fairly large and we’ve reserved a relatively small piece of the pipe for them)

PS- My Address: Josh Fenton, Room 6 / 321 Parkway Ave / Hamilton, NSW 2303 / Australia. I presume it IS named after Alexander H, which is ironic because he was such a dweeb.

PPS- Coming Soon: pictures of Australian money, my living arrangements, and the one picture I took in the airport (customs restrictions sacred the dickens out of me).

let's lose charley